As per usual, the summer has flown by all to fast for some of us. I must admit that I include myself in those numbers. However, the Autumn does have some delicious things going for it and what could be better than French wine? 

One might imagine that things get rather quiet in a small rural village after the tourist season draws to a close. Yet, that is not the case. As early as late August, the vignerons begin the harvest. There will be some unfamiliar faces as young people from all over europe arrive to help get the raisins (grapes). From before seven in the morning until the last shards of light fade away the streets are a hive of tractors, grape harvesters and vehicles filled with pickers on their way to the vineyards and large trailers brimming with freshly harvested grapes.

The Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest wine-producing region in France. More wine is produced in this one small region than in the entire United States.  A wide variety of grapes are grown here such as Grenache, Syrah as well as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. While Languedoc wines cover a rather broad spectrum, from white to red; sweet to dry and of course sparkling which pre-dates Champagne (but that will be another post and another time). The region proudly cultivates the vines on over 700,000 acres here along the Mediterranean coast. It is thought to be the single largest wine-producing area in the world.
The Languedoc-Roussillon is arid, warm and brimming with sunlight. The rugged terrain of herbs, brush and resinous plants infuse the wine with their scents and flavours. It is the ideal terrain and climate for growing grapes. While the quality became secondary to quantity for a time in the early twentieth century the hard working vignerons  committed themselves to turning it around with remarkable results.

A neighbor, Remy,  makes a lovely collection of organic wines and also grape juice. If I am lucky, I can buy a few of the days pickings that did not end up in the vats. Gait is a manager for Remy and has the “honor” of having the buckets of grapes from all the pickers loaded into the large container on his back (porter). Being quite tall, he must bend to allow the pickers to dump the fruit into the container on his back which quickly fills. He follows around all of the people who are cutting the clusters of grapes and then transports his container when filled to the trailer which will quickly be transported back to the cave and on its way to the vats. While it is true that large machines harvest a vast amount of the grapes, a number prefer the hands on approach. Additionally, some of the terrain is such that this is not a viable option.

Tomek (seasonal worker from Poland)

Most of the workers are seasonal and some speak little french.
The perfume of fermenting grapes begins to fill the air as fêtes de vins fill our weekends with tastings, dances, music and more. They last well through November even though the last grapes have been harvested. While these photos are all taken at Domaine Sainte Juste, and Embres – Castlemaure there are a several wonderful options in just this small village alone (pop. 700). There are many more vineyards just a few kilometers away. Embres – Castlemaure is a cooperative and Durban has a wide variety of Vigneron (wine grower) There are at least thirteen seperate caves here. In addition, there are many who have smaller vineyards and make wine just for personal use or sell to a cooperative. If you want a workout, try your hand at the porter’s job. The receptacle on his back hold 60 kilo or just over 132 pounds. They carry those on their backs up hill and down for several hours a day during the harvest. 

Vineyards are everywhere
Vineyards are everywhere
Porters, Corneilus and Yost
Porters, Corneilus and Joost

If you want an extreme workout, try the porter’s job. The receptacles they carry on their back hold 60 kilo or a little over 132 pounds. They are carrying these up and down hills and then taking them to the awaiting trailer to be hauled of to the cave.

Fill those containers and keep moving!
Fill those containers and keep moving!

In our village, a huge party is hosted after the vendange for all who participated. There is music, dancing and refreshments. This lasts well through the night.

Alas, this year, March was quite warm and enough to coax out those early shoots. April followed with two separate nights of frost and destroyed crops all over France. While some did not have severe losses, one of our local vignerons reports a loss of about twenty percent. Losses could be found on one side of a road with the opposite spared. 

With the wine safely pressed and in the vats, the wine festivals commence. They are everywhere and one can pick and choose which to attend. 


Remains of the day
Remains of the day
Embres - Castlemaure Cooperative
Embres – Castlemaure Cooperative
Fruit on the vine
Fruit on the vine







Remy owner Domaine Saint Juste
Remy owner Domaine Saint Juste



37 thoughts on “Vendange

  1. How wonderful, Léa, a real slice of life…what would I give to have a vineyard next door? (rhetorical…heh-heh) 😆

  2. Autumn’s my favourite time of the year, and I think that if I lived where you do I’d like it even better! Those porters must be very fit.

  3. Well written,,,check the porter lines repeated……The photos are great…love the ones of Gite

    1. Thank you so much Judith. Now I have lots of reading to do so i can start this lovely book waiting at the top of the, nearest, TBR stack. It is titled, A Hundred Tiny Threads… funny how it worked its way up the pile so quickly? xx

      1. Hardly, Judith, I have read enough of your books and blog to know I will like it but I have a feeling that I shall love it and it is rare for that to be wrong… I REALLY am looking forward to it. 🙂 xx

    1. It is lovely here and the vineyards so near… but somebody has to… Yes, there is much to love about autumn, but summer, it will always be my favorite season. Thanks for stopping to comment.

  4. Such an amazing and lively post Léa, you remind us all of the simple beauty of life…and I think autumn shows this so well in the harvesting that needs to be done. Hard work for sure, but a feeling of truly living ~ and then to end the day with a glass or three of this great wine. Must be heaven 🙂

    1. Ah Randall, heaven pales in comparison. It is truly paradise here… 🙂 Perhaps one day you will bring your cameras and shoot your way around France! 🙂

      1. There is nothing quite as nice as a good wine, good scenery, and good company ~ as this post shows so perfectly 🙂

      2. 🙂 I am looking forward to it. And I will be happy to introduce you to some at the cave that can open doors… 🙂

  5. What a wonderful story, informative and gloriously evocative. Some of the most enjoyable wines I’ve had were from Languedoc. Twenty years ago I had the pleasure of a dinner with Aime and Veronique Guibert who own Daumas Gassac. Incredible. You’ve made me feel so envious.

    1. Now you need to try Trois from the cave of Embres-Castlemaure. I’ve never found a wine to come even close and the cave is conveniently 7 km from my home…

      1. Mae West was a pioneer. A fan once remarked, ‘goodness, look at those jewels’, on seeing Ms West and her finery at a premiere. Mae replied, ‘Goodness had nothing to do with it, sister.’

      2. I would be most surprised if you did. Bonne chance! Perhaps you better come to France and try the best!

  6. We have a small residence in a village not far from Lezignan Corbiers, alas I haven’t managed a vendage but my brother and mother have done several. Ill get there soon, maybe sooner after reading this. 👍🏻😊

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